If you have a small camera like a GoPro, it might seem obvious that all you should have to do is mount it on the Shapeoko CNC. Having an instant replay available to help diagnose what’s happening in different parts of the cut can be invaluable. In addition, there are times I simply want to share my project with friends or post it on YouTube.

If you’ve tried to add a camera to your CNC machine, you may already know that it can be tricky to get good results. The GoPro isn’t meant to focus on objects at close range, so your HD images may be blurry. Mounting the camera on longer arms might help with the focusing, but new issues arise. Longer arms can introduce vibration into your footage – even with GoPro’s stabilization in Boost mode. As well, it can become difficult to maintain the camera’s desired position while cutting if you have flexible joints within your set-up.

My Shapeoko CNC Camera Mount

Firstly, my latest set-up makes use of several hinges and ball-joints that attach to the spindle mount of the Shapeoko CNC. (A full list of all hardware is at the bottom of this post.) All of the components are aluminum – including the thumbscrews. This set-up enables fast, convenient, and reliable positioning of the camera relative to the endmill and workpiece.

The metallic components have held up to repeated movements and a messy cutting environment. The arms hold their position well. The length of the arm is long enough to get very good (but not perfect) focusing on the endmill. Most importantly, this set-up also has the least vibration of any set-up that I’ve tried.

The wrench is the key

A big part of what makes this set-up work is the wrench included to tighten (and loosen) the thumbscrews at each joint. The wrench allows you to tighten the joints of the arm firmly enough that they actually stay put while machining. Note: This wrench is aluminum & it’s the version I recommend getting. Plastic versions of the thumbscrews and the wrenches are available but you can’t achieve the same level of torque, and they aren’t as durable. In short, save the hassle and get the aluminum ones from the start.

Powered by USB

Another advantage of my set-up is that doesn’t require a charged battery to work. A USB cable, routed through the X and Y axis drag chains supplies power to the GoPro. This cable feeds a short USB-C cable that connects directly to the GoPro. A standard 120VAC outlet (mounted under the machine) with a built-in USB port supplies the power. This allows the GoPro to be on for as long as I need without ever having to consider how much battery life I have left. Combined with a 256GB memory card, I don’t ever worry about missing a shot.

A protective camera case

I opted to mount the GoPro in a clear case to offer it some protection from the cutting environment. Milling wood is dusty & aluminum shavings can be both hot and abrasive. This case costs about $15. If necessary, it can be replaced. To allow access for the USB cable, I had to cust a small access hole for the USB-C cable. I used a Dremel and a plastic cut-off wheel. It worked well enough, however, this wasn’t the most controlled way to do it.

Because the protective case prevents the use of the GoPro’s touch screen, you won’t be able to use it. Fortunately, the GoPro app allows control of nearly all of the settings you’ll likely need. The plastic case does not affect Bluetooth and Wifi connections between your phone and the GoPro. When not in use, the arm and USB cable can be easily removed from the spindle clamp. A 1/4-20 bolt holds the arm in place on the spindle mount.

Make your Shapeoko camera mount

In conclusion, here’s a list of the components you’ll need to duplicate my setup, and links to purchase them. Note that I use 2 of the SUREWO ball-joint mounts.